CUTTING AND INSTALLATION
|
Cutting FRP grating is so much easier than cutting steel or alloys. It can be performed on site with ease provided you have the facilities to use power tools - Even a hand held hacksaw can be used if necessary!
Although the dust from FRP grating is low toxic, as with any cutting situation that may create a dust problem, it is important to wear dust protective clothing and equipment such as dust masks.
|
|
Some of the tools commonly used to cut and smooth FRP Grating. |
|
|
Dust Protection: Even though it has a very low toxic content, cutting FRP products creates a very fine dust and it is recommended to use full face dust protection similar to that shown here.
|
|
|
Diamond Tip cutting blade: To suit a circular saw and/or an angle grinder as shown in the images below. Although a segmented blade is shown and may be used, Envirowalk prefers to recommend the continuous turbo rim cutting blade.
|
|
|
Circular Saw: A saw requiring a 184mm blade should service most requirements. Best to use a wet saw where possible to minimize dust cloud. |
|
|
Reciprocating Saw with Masonry blade or Jigsaw with ceramic blade (The latter for mesh less than 30mm thick) |
|
|
Angle Grinder: It is advisable to have two: a small (115mm) and a larger (180mm)
|
|
|
Straight Edge Guide: This is important when cutting diagonally across panels: It will help prevent the saw or grinder 'kicking' off line. |
|
|
Small sanding grinder: With a 40 grit Metal Flap disc, this can be used to clean off cut edges. |
|
|
Small Paint Roller: Using disposable roller sleeves. In areas of high corrosion it is advisable to apply a thin coating of resin/Gelcoat to the exposed edges as added protection. The resin/sealer may also be brushed on if preferred.
|
|
|
NB: A coarse bladed hacksaw can also be useful to trim off any undesired protrusions of load bars.
|
|
EnviroTread EnviroTread HELPFUL HINTS EnviroTread EnviroTread
|
When placing panels over a slight hump or change in angle in gradient that requires the panel to bend downward, it may be possible to take advantage of the flexibility of FRP by cutting a wedge groove on the underside of the panel to allow the panel to conform to the required shape without excessive resistance. This reduces the number of joining gaps.
|
The following pictures illustrate the cutting for corners and cut-outs.
|
|
When panels are cut evenly through the axis of change in direction Mini-Mesh is ideal as the load bars match up and the resulting odd shape apertures do not detract from it's aesthetic appearance.
NB: Although edge bars can be bonded to the cut edges of panels it is not recommended as they do tend to come loose in a relatively short period of time: Bonding FRP edge bars does not have same strength as welding steel to steel.
|
|
Another means of changing direction is to use cover (solid) top panels of equal thickness cut to wedge shapes: The Lake Thetis walkway used 30mm thick (H30) 38x38 grid mesh in conjunction with 25+5 cover top (i.e. H25 Mesh with 5mm flat plate bonded to the surface and with grit anti-slip surface.)
|
Cut outs around trees, rocks, or other obstacles is best performed by using a reciprocating saw with masonry blade for panels more than 25mm thick or a jig saw with ceramic blade for panels up to 25mm thickness.
Round off cut edges to aid against injuries. To do this we recommend using a 40 grit metal flap disc in a 127mm diametre grinder. Only light pressure should be used when doing this.
|
|
EnviroTread EnviroTread Kickboards: EnviroTread EnviroTread
|
When kickboards are required along the top edges of walkways it is possible to insert a Standard Mesh Type M Clip from the underside as shown in photo illustration. The fastener Bolt/Screw would then be secured in a cavity that would reduce the risk of tampering. (In the case of Mini-Mesh Grating it would be necessary to either pre-drill the infill bars or use a suitable self-tapping fastener.)
The hole diameter in the Standard Mesh Clip is 8.5 mm
.
|
|